Wine Advocate 90-92
“The 2013 Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes has a much more backward, introspective bouquet compared to the Village Cru at the moment, but there is an attractive brine influence here. The palate is silky smooth and very well balanced. There is good substance here, a solid Vieilles Vignes with a fleshy finish. Lovely.”
Gotta soft spot for Hudelot-Baillet…I don’t mind admitting that. It’s just got everything that I like about Burgundy: not too big, congenial winemaker, choice selection of premier crus with a grand cru if you fancy, straightforward winemaking, nothing fancy, nothing self-aggrandising. Just delicious, nuanced wines that need but a sip to compel a purchase. Dominique Leguen, son-in-law of former proprietor Joel Hudelot-Baillet, was working in the vat-room when I arrived early in the morning. He told me that he believes the quality of the 2013 is just under, occasionally equal to, the 2012 with similar pH levels and just a little rot affecting his whites. He commenced the harvest on October 5 under good conditions and benefited from the cold mornings to keep the picked fruit nice and cool. Like everyone else he had to chaptalize a little in 2013, and said that this had to go hand in hand with a careful remontage. His malolactics were late, finishing not until the end of July. This was a solid set of wines that displayed vibrant, shimmering fruit from barrel with good structure if not quite the penetrating precision of the previous vintage. Dominique’s wines are still under the radar (…ish), but appear to be gaining wider audience with every passing vintage.
” Domaine Hudelot-Baillet is a true Chambolle-Musigny producer with cellars in the town as well as holdings entirely within the appellation. The domaine was created in 1981 by Joël Hudelot (inherited largely from his father Paul) and his wife Chantal Baillet. Joël retired in 2004 and passed along the reins to his son-in-law Dominique Leguen, who had been working with him at the domaine since 1998. Dominique, who also works as Frederic Mugnier’s vineyard manager, has elevated the quality at this domaine and has been described by Christophe Roumier as a ‘vigneron to watch’…
The grapes here are all destemmed but not crushed initially while they undergo a brief cool pre-fermenation maceration. He uses pigeage initially then a combination of pump over and delestage (rack and return), in order to avoid extracting too much from the pips. The village level wines are aged in 1/3 new oak and 1/3 each one year and two year old barrels; while the premier cru and grand cru wines are aged in 50% new and 50% one year old oak.
These wines from this domaine show a purity of Chambolle fruit which is certainly rare to find consistently throughout a domaine’s line-up: from villages up to Grand Cru. We think that when you have the chance to taste them, you will agree… “