WJ Drinks: Charles Dufour

Charles Dufour, hailing from Landrevilee, Aube (within proximity to Bar-sur-Seine), embodies a new generation of small Vignerons who began producing Champagne of the highest profile. Having started working in the family business in 2006, Charles began a drastic conversion of vineyard to biological, with the final process coming to fruition from the 2010 harvest. All the grapes for the new production line Charles Dufour – Les Vignes du 7, are therefore strictly certified though the purist choice of Charles is not limited to the elimination of synthetic chemicals in the vineyard.
  
Being certified organic is particularly difficult for the Champagne due to the climatic conditions of rain and cold weather. And yet, Charles has managed to create the most natural wines full of artisan imprint. Charles only works organically but also uses natural yeast, a difficult task in sparkling wine production. Most of Dufour’s Pinot Blanc goes into blend “Bulles de Comptoir”. In 2011, he siphoned some to make “Le Champ du Clos,” which is entirely varietal and has since began one of the flagship of Charles Dufour. Such Blanc de Blancs with purely Pinot Blanc is really rare! No oak is used so the cuvee has a very pure, mineral based expression with citrus and dried herbs. Elegant and subtle and I really mean that – not as a euphemism for light and blah – it will find fans among those who enjoy very pure wines.
  
That’s how Charles Dufour obtained Champagne of unquestionable authenticity.

Charles Dufour represents the new wave of wine makers, willing to push the frontiers of pure wine making. Dufour creates terroir-centric wine making reflecting each lieu-dit and with minimal treatment to the wines (no dosage, fining, filtration, biodynamic and organic). The polished gem of the Aube (ie: with few ratings online), represents excellent value for this young maker. 

Charles tasting with us the Bulle de Comptiors #4 and #5 as well as his Pinot Blanc!

” Is Dufour a trend setter here or maybe even responding to one that has already begun? The latter I honestly don’t know. Located in Aube, which is sort of the bastard stepchild of Champagne, the vignerons, especially the younger ones, feel less of a need to conform to tradition. As one of the permitted grapes in Champagne, Dufour is not doing anything outside of the AOC. In fact the vines, which were planted by his grandfather, are quite old. Using oak might make it more appealing to a large swath of consumers but I love the clarity and uniqueness of the Champagne and hope without altering the wine he can dial it in a little bit more so that others can use it as a benchmark for Pinot Blanc in Champagne. “  —  TheVinGuard.com

The Bulle de Compoir series come in different labels, each vintage release can have multiple labels too! Charles commissions different artist for these labels, or doodle some of them on his own!

Wine Making

Generally, the wines are harvest with sufficient phenlic ripeness. Sulphates with less than 1g/hl with natural settling of individual barrels without blocking malolactic fermentation. Only first press juices were used in the vinification for the Lieu Dix. Indigenous yeast are used with aging on less for 9 months before racking. A further two months are spent in the vats. The wines are non-fined and non-filtered. 


PRISE DE MOUSSE
The second fermentation is done using addition of the Moût Concent ré Rectifié (MCR). MRC is a rectified concentrated must made from concentrated dehydrated grapes in accordance to the biodynamic and organic certifications. This is added a week before the start of the second fermentation. Ventilation is generous on the day when capsules go on to allow more oxygenation.

The Cuvées